A
year after my experience with the South African arms embargo,
I left my career in the Foreign Service. The disconnect between
what I was asked to do professionally and what was in my heart
got too great to continue. I was excited by the prospect of using
my experience and my ideals to help resolve conflicts, not keep
them going. I had no real plan in mind, but I loved to talk about
my vision, and my friends patted me on the head and told me what
a fine fellow I was.
But
I quickly began to get second thoughts, especially when my
government paychecks stopped coming. I told myself that I had
the whole rest of my life to put my vision into action. It might
be wise to first earn some significant money. So I set up a consulting
business in New York City, where Id advise banks and other
companies about the political risks of investing in the Third
World. Id tell them, for example, when I thought thered
be a revolution in Nigeria or a coup in Angola. So I rented
office space and put a carpet on the floor and my name on the
door.
That
business should have been a successI had high-level contacts
all over the Third World, and really did know a lot about the
subject. But I didnt get a single damn client. Within
a month, I had to close that office, leaving me very broke
and feeling very sorry for myself.
Then
a friend of mine, who knew Id always had a good gift for gab, suggested that I could
make some easy money by lecturing on cruise ships. So to make
a long story short, thats what I did. I signed up as ships
lecturer on the SS Prinsendam, sailing from Vancouver to Tokyo.
As promised, the pay was great, and I also got to bring along
my then thirteen year-old daughter Malory. All I had to do was
give two lecturesthe shipping line didnt even care
what I talked about. I was officially a member of the ships
entertainment staff, which meant that part of my job was
also waltzing widows with blue hair around the dance floor.
So
Malory and I board the ship in Vancouver and three days later
were
way up in the Gulf of Alaska, heading for Japan. But that night,
were woken up about 2:00 AM by a call over the public address
system. A voice tells us that theres been a fire in the
engine room but that its been put out. Passengers are requested
to come up to the ships lounge while fans blow the smoke
out of the corridors. Free drinks will be served. Disarmed by
the message, Malory and I dont even take our life
jackets with us.
The
lounge, however, is full of acrid black smoke, so the passengers
spill out onto the deck. Its October, in
the Gulf of Alaska, and the night air is cold. Some people pull
cloths off the tables or curtains off the windows and are using
them as blankets. Theres no moon, and a dancing green belt
of Northern Lights is so bright it hides the stars. Beneath it,
a dark, still ocean spreads in all directions. But the most interesting
sight is behind us: any fool can see that the smoke coming up
from below is getting blacker and thicker. That fire cant
possibly be out. The PA message was a lie.
At
about 4:00 AM, the PA voice directs all the passengers to move
to the stern of the ship. They bring out the ships orchestra, but, unlike on
the Titanic, they dont play Nearer My God to Thee, but
show tunes from Oklahoma. Once or twice an airplane flies overhead,
and dumps CO2 canisters. Worried looking firemen climb up and
down the stairs. The rest of us are sitting on the stern, watching
the black smoke boil up out of the bowels of the ship, drinking
brandy and listening to The corn is as high as an elephants
eye
At
4:30, were ordered to lifeboat stations.
Malory and I are assigned to Boat #2, far up on the port bow.
Malory counts over 90 people waiting there but a sign on the
boat says its made for 48. Were there
perhaps ten minutes when a dull explosion rocks
the ship, followed by the shattering of glass.
The heat has blown out the windows in the dining
rooms and salons. The flames gulp the rush of oxygen
and within thirty seconds the whole middle of the
ship is wrapped in flames, leaping into the night
sky.
Jammed
back against the railings by the flames, some people scream.
Others moan quietly. A panic would have sent people into the
water, but to jump into the Gulf of Alaska, at night, in October,
meant certain death: even if you could swim, you'd die from hypothermia
very quickly.
Suddenly
the Captain appears on the bridge, in full-dress uniform, with
a microphone in his hand. I regret to inform you, he
says, but we have lost the battle with
the flames. We must now abandon the ship. Please
follow the instructions of the crew.
The
ships six lifeboats and four life rafts began to load 550
passengers and crew. The seamen keep fouling the linesnobody
thought this almost new ship would ever face
conditions like this. But by a series of
miracles all the boats hit the water safely.
Its
now 5:30 AM and still very dark. The sea then is calm so the
little boats float low but well. The problem is the weather.
Almost as soon as we hit the water, a stiff breeze begins to
blow from the west, and dark clouds erase the Northern Lights.
The lifeboats begin to roll gently in a light chop. A serious
storm, the tail end of Typhoon Victor, is headed our way. The
rescue effort, when it starts, is a race against time.
Currents
shove the lifeboats away from each other, and from the burning
ship. At first light, three helicopters appear, sent from shore
bases 140 miles away. Each begins picking people out of the boats
one-by-one, using a metal chair at the end of a long cable. When
a chopper has a full load of 8 or 9 people, it takes them to
the deck of an oil tanker than has answered the SOS and is steaming
in our direction. About noon, I see Malory go spinning off into
space and into a helicopter. |